LOWELL, Mass.—“I waited a whole year for this!”
The voice belonged to an eager enthusiast looking to sink his teeth into a losh kebab plate prepared by the Lowell “Lousintak” Armenian Relief Society (ARS) Chapter.
He wasn’t alone. Hundreds of others also waited their turn at the Lowell Folk Festival, which draws throngs from throughout New England the last weekend in July.
Being the 26th year, the Lowell ungerouhis kept the tradition going, much to everyone’s delight. The line formed at the rear throughout both days as visitors were hankering for their favorite meal, even if it took a year.
Sunday was met with rain and still the people came, toting umbrellas and juggling their plates. So the contents got a little wet. Still good for the digestive system.
“They should open a restaurant and offer this on their menu,” said one hungry diner. “The Armenians really know how to cook up a meal.”
To say it was the busiest booth might be an understatement, given the influx of other ethnic groups. The Greeks did their bustling business, as well as the Cambodians and Polish. Each had its following. But somehow the Armenian booth trumped the pack.
It was easy to find with their tricolored flags. Crowds also got to see the new genocide memorial (“A Mother’s Hands”) by City Hall, which had been unveiled May 10.
For the few outside Armenians who attended, it was a chance to smell their grandmother’s cooking. Giving the moment added appeal were three generations all working together under one canopy. A sense of community was well in hand.
Credit the ARS for keeping the spirit alive, despite the advanced age for many well beyond retirement. Profits go toward maintaining the ARS community center on Liberty Street, home for the past 50 years, along with other charitable causes.
“We work in an arena of friendship and harmony,” said Sossy Jeknavorian, who headed up the festival committee. “People who come here know the Armenian booth and wait their turn, no matter how long it takes. We give them a meal they’ll long remember.”
Close to a thousand kebabs are prepared and sold over the two days, in addition to trays of other foods. Some will opt to have their losh in a pouch with salad. Others like it served on a plate with pilaf. They’ll ask for a recipe and told it’s been handed down from thousands of years. No secrets unfold here.
Say what you want about the lahmejun that’s also served up, the yalanchi prepared by the best of hands.
But when push comes to shove, it’s the almighty losh that steals the thunder. Trust me and the sweat that rolls down my back at the BBQ pit. We can’t keep up with the demand.
Should a patty come apart in transit, no problem. Into a side dish it goes to feed the help.
The week-long process includes everything from readiness to implementation. And from those who served as grill master in the past, listen and you shall hear.
“Flip ‘em before they burn. A good losh should be tender and juicy.”
Tom Vartabedian
Latest posts by Tom Vartabedian (see all)
- Vartabedian: My Final Column - November 13, 2016
- A Hat to Match Any Occasion - October 19, 2016
- More Smiles Keep the Frowns Away - October 12, 2016
Tom,
This article warms my heart! If it weren’t for the fact that, Lowell’s VT Armenians were on a road trip (coming back from CA) we would have been there as a volunteer as well as customer…..what was the word I/we used one year….succulent!
To you Pearl — You and your children were always vital components of the Lowell Festivals. Maybe you can create your own in Vermont and establish a whole new colony bof Armenian epicureans.